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The North Coast
Trail is a wilderness hiking trail in Cape Scott Provincial Park
on northern Vancouver Island. The 43.1-km trail runs along beaches
and through forest from Shushartie Bay to Nissen Bight. At Nissen
Bight it links up with an existing 15-km section of the original
Cape Scott Trail, which leads to the southern trailhead at San Josef
River, increasing the total distance between the trailheads of what
is known as the Cape Scott North Coast Trail to 61 km.
The North Coast
Trail was completed in May 2008 after inclusion of the Nahwitti-Shushartie
area into Cape Scott Provincial Park. The trail offers hikers a
glimpse into wild, west coast ecosystems. The rugged trail passes
through old and second-growth Sitka spruce, hemlock and cedar forests,
upland bogs, riparian areas, across sand, gravel and cobble beaches,
and past sea stacks, rocky headlands, and tidal pools.
Cape Scott
Provincial Park is rich with First Nations history, with many signs
of their historic presence evident in the park. Danish pioneers
tried unsuccessfully to settle the area at the turn of the twentieth
century, and the trail incorporates some of their original routes.
The minimum
recommended one-way hiking time is 5 days, although it is normally
completed in 6 to 8 days. This is a very challenging route that
is not recommended for inexperienced hikers. Many sections require
hikers to climb over or along fallen trees, to cross through deep
mud, and to use fixed ropes to climb up and over steep sections.
The North Coast
Trail is situated in a remote, wilderness area, and hikers may see
deer, elk, black bears, cougars, wolves, sea birds, seals, sea lions,
grey whales, mink, and sea otters. Wildlife encounters are common
in the park, so visitors should exercise caution.
The Cape Scott
Trailhead and parking lot for Cape Scott
Provincial Park is located at San Josef River, and can be accessed
by car from Port Hardy on
the Holberg Road, a 64-km drive over fairly good logging roads.
There is currently
no road access to the other trailhead at Shushartie Bay, and hikers
will have to use either a water taxi from Port Hardy (services operate
in summer) or a seaplane to access the trail. Long-term plans for
the park include construction of a road to Shushartie Bay and a
vehicle-accessible campground.
Click for companies
that offer Hiking
& Backpacking services in BC, or visit our Recreation
section for more information on Hiking and Backpacking in British
Columbia.
NORTH COAST
TRAIL OVERVIEW
Shushartie
Bay Campsite to Skinner Creek Campsite
Distance: 8.1km (5 to 7 hours)
This is the longest section of inland trail and is considered by
most to be the most challenging portion of the entire route. The
trail reaches its maximum elevation of 225 metres along this section,
and passes mainly through upland bog ecosystems. This section provides
sensitive habitats for amphibians, fish and invertebrates, so please
stay on the trail to avoid increased erosion and damage. There are
stretches of boardwalk, but expect to be climbing up, over and around
tree roots and stumps and through very muddy sections.
Three tent
pads, a food cache, and a pit toilet are located on the hillside
above the trailhead at Shushartie Bay. There is no water source
at Shushartie Bay. If you are hiking from Skinner Creek, fill up
your water bottles there. There is a designated campsite at Skinner
Creek with a pit toilet and a food cache. There are no tent platforms
but beach camping is possible. Skinner Creek is the only good water
source along this section of trail.
Skinner
Creek Campsite to Nahwitti River Campsite
Distance: 2.9km (1 to 1.5 hours)
It is possible to hike along the beach from Skinner Creek to Nahwitti
River at low tide. However, this section can be very dangerous during
high tides, and can be virtually impassable. A rough inland trail
can be used to bypass the beach if necessary. There is one section
of inland trail to be used at all times. Hanging floats at the end
of the beach identify the access point. Tide tables should be consulted
before attempting to hike the beach section.
There is a
campsite with four tent platforms, a food cache, and a pit toilet
located at Nahwitti River. The Nahwitti River can be used as a water
source, but walk far enough upstream to avoid tidal influx.
Nahwitti
River Campsite to Cape Sutil Campsite
Distance: 5km (2.5 to 4 hours)
From the Nahwitti River camp the trail heads south on an easy trail
to the first cable car crossing. The ladders to the cable car platforms
are very steep, and caution should be exercised, especially in wet
weather. No more than two people, or 600 lbs/270 kgs, should use
the cable car at one time.
Portions of
the next section of trail are through dense forest where the trail
can easily be lost. Look for trail markers to identify the path.
Be aware that some areas may have old flagging tape delineating
old logging tracks and are not marking the trail. The trail then
heads up and over what is known as Long Leg Hill before descending
down the longest set of stairs in Cape Scott Provincial Park.
The beach west
of the Nahwitti stairs is impassable at high tide due to a rocky
promontory. Wading past this section at high tide should not be
attempted due to the risk of being swept out to sea. Plan your hike
accordingly, by consulting a current tide table.
Camping at
the eastern edge of the beach is possible during certain times of
year if necessary. Ensure that you are set up well above the high
tide line. There is a good water source located immediately east
of the rocky promontory. The last stretch to the Cape Sutil campsite
is characterized by steep, rugged headlands with extensive rope
work. If necessary, remove your pack and lower it with the ropes
provided.
Cape Sutil
itself lies outside of the park boundary in an Indian Reserve. It
is the former site of the First Nations village of “Nahwitti” and
is rich in cultural heritage. Access to the reserve is restricted,
so please refrain from visiting the Cape.
There is a
ranger yurt located at Cape Sutil that is staffed with Park Facility
Operators (PFOs) from May 15th to September 30th. The yurt is open
the rest of the year for emergency use by the public. Please ensure
that you leave the yurt in better condition than you found it. Do
not wear caulk boots in the yurt, and use the food caches located
behind the structure.
Beach camping
is possible at Cape Sutil (there are no tent platforms at this site).
There is a pit toilet located 50 meters up the trail at the eastern
end of the beach. There is a food cache located behind the ranger
yurt. There are only ephemeral water sources along this section
of trail. Pack water from Nahwitti River or Irony Creek (depending
on direction of travel).
Cape Sutil
Campsite to Irony Creek Campsite (Shuttleworth Bight)
Distance: 7.8km (4 to 6 hours)
Pocket beaches and rocky headlands characterize this section of
trail. Keep your eyes open for floats and buoys hanging near inland
trail access points. Many beach sections can be traversed at low
tide, but look for the adjacent inland routes during high waters.
More rope work and steep sections can be expected along this stretch.
There is a
creek ford immediately west of the Irony Creek campsite. Passage
can be difficult under high flows (e.g. in early spring), and the
rocks in the area are slippery at all times of year, in all weather
conditions.
There is a
campsite located on the west side of Irony Creek, in the middle
of Shuttleworth Bight. There are four tent platforms, a food cache,
and a pit toilet at this location. Irony Creek is the only good
water source along this section of trail.
Irony Creek
(Shuttleworth Bight) Campsite to Laura Creek Campsite
Distance: 11.8km (4 to 7 hours)
This section is predominantly coastal. Hikers will find themselves
exposed to the effects of the open ocean, with little in the way
of cover in inclement weather. Camping is possible along the pocket
beaches north west of the cable car, but no facilities are provided.
Consult tide tables to ensure high tides do not hinder progress
along this section.
There is a
short easy inland section to the second cable car crossing located
at the Stranby River. Look for signs of the old corduroy settler’s
road on the west side of the cable car.
Beach sections
alternate between, sand, gravel and cobble while passing by innumerable
tidal pools and rock shelves exposed at low tide. This section is
teaming with wildlife. Bald eagles perched in old growth Sitka spruce,
and black bears foraging in the beds of seaweed, are quite common.
There is another creek ford east of the Laura Creek campsite. It
is generally easy to cross, but rocks in this area are very slippery.
There is a
designated campsite with four tent platforms, a food cache, and
a pit toilet located approximately 100 meters west of Laura Creek.
Laura Creek is the only good water source along this section of
trail.
Laura Creek
Campsite to Nissen Bight
Distance: 7.5km (2.5 to 4 hours)
This is the last section of inland trail before reaching the Nissen
Bight trailhead. It begins and ends with easy sand beach walks before
climbing back into the forest to traverse around the Nahwitti Cone.
Boardwalks and stairways are common, but many sections are still
very muddy. Look for the old settler’s road along this section,
and stop for a break at Laughing Loon Lake - the North Coast Trail’s
only lake (not suitable for swimming).
There are two
significant creek crossings along this section. The first (when
heading east to west) has a bridge with hand rail, but the second,
located at Dakota Creek, does not. Do NOT attempt to walk across
the log spanning the second creek. It is very slippery and unsafe.
Either ford the creek or shimmy across the log.
Beach camping
is possible on the entire length of Nissen Bight. A pit toilet and
food cache are located at the western end of the beach. The water
source is located at the eastern end of the beach near the North
Coast Trail trailhead (approximately 900 meters from the pit toilet
and food cache). At low tide walk approximately 50 meters east along
the rocks, or at high tide take the inland trail that forks to the
east off the North Coast Trail near the beach.
Nissen Bight
to Cape Scott Trailhead
Distance: 15.4km (5 to 7 hours)
This section is part of the original Cape Scott trail. It is
the easiest section of the North Coast trail and also the most maintained.
There are many boardwalk sections, but still expect to get your
feet muddy. Look for remnants of the Danish settlers along the entire
route.
There is a
campsite with three tent platforms and a pit toilet located at Fisherman
River at kilometre 9.3 (from the Cape Scott trailhead). There is
no food cache at this location. Fisherman River is the best water
source along this section of trail.
There are eight
tent platforms, a food cache, and a pit toilet located at Eric Lake
at kilometre 3 (from the Cape Scott trailhead). Access to the lake
is on the west side of the campground.
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